Sustainable fabrics & how to care for them

Originally published in Issue 9 of It’s Magazine

If you’re on the look-out to buy fabrics for your latest sewing project or trying to be more cognsant of what your clothing is made from when purchasing new items, here  is some helpful information on two of my favourite sustainable fabrics as well as  information on how to care for each of them. 

Hemp:  

Hemp as a sustainable fabric is made from the fibers of cannabis sativa.  Cannabis sativa first evolved in early civilizations in Eastern Asia before spreading to  other parts of the world. The fibers from the cannabis sativa plant have also been  utilized in making products such as canvas and rope (Simplifi Fabric). 

Hemp is a herbaceous plant that is considered highly sustainable to both grow  and wear. It is a pest-resistant, high-yield, and fast-growing crop that does not require  the use of harmful pesticides or herbicides. Hemp is produced in large amounts due to  the plant’s ability to grow sizable numbers of fibre per acre. The plant also helps to  control erosion within the soil bed due to its strong root system and is a natural  renewable resource (Simplifi Fabric). 

Hemp creates a strong, soft, and durable fabric that is hypo allergenic. Over time  as you wash hemp fabric, the material becomes softer and softer. Hemp is also a go-to  fabric for clothing with its classic look and lightweight feel, especially during hot and  humid weather (Simplifi Fabric). 

Care Guidelines:  

When caring for your hemp fabric, ensure that you wash it in cold water.  Depending on the colour of your hemp material, it is also recommended that it be washed in a separate laundry load from other items. Do not put hemp fabric in the dryer.  Allow for your material to dry in an airy spot. Over time, your hemp clothing may wrinkle.  Give your clothing the time to hang in an airy spot or lightly iron on low heat to remove  any wrinkles (Simplifi Fabric). 

Organic Cotton:  

Cotton, also known as gossypium hirsutum, is indigenous to the Indus Valley,  known today as Pakistan, as well as parts of India and Africa. Cotton fabric or clothing is  made from the fibrous seeds of the cotton plant (Eden project, 2017). The fluffy seeds  are spun into a cotton fibre, then yarn, which gets woven into a fabric, finished, and  dyed (Soil Association). The growing, cultivation, and use of cotton spread widely  around the world from Asia to the Americas. It was during the rise of the Industrial  Revolution when the production, manufacturing, and cultivation of cotton became highly  mechanized. With the rise in the mechanization of cotton production, the use of cotton  became increasingly popular in the creation of fabric, clothing, and other products. At  the same time, the dehumanising west African slave trade was occurring in which slave  labor was also used to increase production. The use of toxic chemicals such as  herbicides and pesticides were also introduced to aid in the growing and cultivation of  the crop (Eden project, 2017).  

Within the context of the cotton industry, the growing and use of organic cotton is  significant. Cotton is “one of the most widely grown crops in the world” (Organic Cotton  Plus) so when conventionally grown, has a large negative impact on the environment and the people working within the cotton industry. However, the organic cotton  movement is beginning to lead the industry away from harmful growing practices and instead, towards a movement of producing cotton that does not come at the cost of the  environment or the health and well-being of those working within the industry (Organic  Cotton Plus). 

Organic cotton seeds are grown in soil that contains natural organic matter, such  as compost, free from synthetic external inputs. Organic cotton production methods and  processes do not use toxic pesticides and herbicides to aid in the growth of the plants  and instead, use insects and weed suppressing crops to create healthy interactions. Organic cotton methods also utilize rain-fed water systems to prevent exploitative water  extracting processes that put pressure on local water supplies in rural farming  communities (Organic Cotton Plus).  

More reasons to consider searching for organic cotton materials in your next  fabric or clothing purchase is because the organic cotton movement aids in mitigating  the effects of climate change through fostering healthy soil development and supports  local farmers in their freedom from genetically modified (GM) seed corporations that are  highly exploitative (Soil Association).  

As a fabric, organic cotton is light and breathable for hot and humid days, classic  looking, and comfortable. 

Care Guidelines:  

Always follow the care guidelines outlined on each specific cotton garment or  fabric. In general, cotton should be washed on a cold cycle and hung up to dry. Iron out  wrinkles on cotton lightly and on low heat. Cotton fabrics or clothing should not be put in  the dryer.  

A Note on Sustainable Dyes for Clothing:

It is also important to consider the dyes and dying process that is utilized when  purchasing colourful hemp or organic cotton fabric or clothing. Look for fabrics or  clothing that have been dyed naturally with the use of flower petals or vegetables such  as beets or berries.  

More to Consider: 

More sustainable fabrics that I look for when buying new clothing or fabrics are  recycled polyester, made from recycled plastic water bottles, as well as rayon or lyocell,  which is a fabric made from the cellulose of wood.

Works Cited

Eden project. (2017, March 01). Cotton. Retrieved from  https://www.edenproject.com/learn/for-everyone/plant-profiles/cotton 

Organic Cotton Plus. (n.d.). What is Organic Cotton? | Global Organic Textile Standards  (GOTS) | Organic Cotton 101: Organic Cotton Processing. Retrieved from  https://organiccottonplus.com/pages/learning-center 

Simplifi Fabric. (n.d.). Hemp. Retrieved from https://www.simplififabric.com/pages/hemp  

Soil Association. (n.d.). Organic Cotton. Retrieved from  https://www.soilassociation.org/organic-living/fashion-textiles/organic-cotton/ 

Textile Exchange. (2017, June). Quick Guide to Organic Cotton (Rep.). Retrieved from  https://textileexchange.org/wp-content/uploads/2017/06/Textile-Exchange_Quick Guide-To-Organic-Cotton_2017.pdf